11. Represa dos Ciganos x Bom Retiro
Section: Represa dos Ciganos x Bom Retiro
Park where this section is located: Tijuca National Park
Summary
Pack your swimsuit, as the Assento and Ciganos waterfalls await you. Cooling off will be a good idea, as this section will make you sweat with the must-do climbs to Tijuca Mirim Peak (917 m) and Tijuca Peak (1,021 m). This is the highest point of the National Park and one of the highest in Rio de Janeiro, offering an incredible 360° view of the city. The route has great historical significance, housing the ruins of the old Boa Vista farm and the Ciganos Dam, a water reservoir built in 1906 that was one of the city's main attractions in the last century. Since it is still used for urban supply, swimming is prohibited. At Bom Retiro there is good infrastructure with parking, a children's play area and restrooms.
Orientation
9.5 km
5 h
Climbing: None
Direction
Represa dos Ciganos x Bom Retiro
Direction
Bom Retiro x Represa dos Ciganos
Technical Information
Difficulty
High
Risk
Low
Sun
Low
Orientation
Moderate
Signage
Complete
Hydration
Yes
Attractions
Viewpoint
Pool/Lake
Conservation
Good
Waterfall
Ruins
Section Map
Interactive Map
Route Description
(Direction West x East / Barra de Guaratiba x Morro da Urca)
Those who start this section at the CEDAE dam in front of Hospital Cardoso Fontes, at the top of Estrada Grajaú-Jacarepaguá, need to pay attention to the Transcarioca Trail signage, as the entrance gate does not open very early. In this case, just follow the yellow footprints on black base, which enters through a side of the gate 20 meters ahead in the Grajaú direction. After entering, continue for 1.1 km until crossing a bridge, then another 450 m to the ruins of a reservoir built in 1906.
200 m ahead is the Ciganos Dam, where swimming is prohibited, although this is often ignored due to lack of enforcement. Now the trail itself begins. Pay attention, the entrance is on the left and is marked. Walk another 700 m to reach the Assento and Ciganos waterfalls. Past this point, walk 800 m to Lajeado, where there is excellent water to refill your canteen and a good spot to rest and have a snack. Continue for another 400 m to a fork indicating the ruins of the old Boa Vista farm. It is worth entering to see the beautiful semi-destroyed buildings of the old coffee farm.
Return to the Main Trail with yellow footprints/black base and go 1.4 km to Alto dos Ciganos. From this clearing, walk another 1.1 km to the first banana grove. The climb continues for a long 1.2 km stretch to the Tijuca Mirim rock walls. Hold on, as the ascent gets steeper until reaching the entrance to Tijuca Mirim (200 m). Leave the Main Trail and walk only 45 m to the summit of Tijuca Mirim, which is well worth visiting.
Returning from the summit, resume the Main Trail (yellow footprints/black base) and walk another 130 m to the entrance to the famous Pico da Tijuca. Now it's 240 m of very steep ascent (stone steps) to the summit. The view is breathtaking, absolutely unmissable! Back on the Main Trail, walk zigzag downhill to the exit fork (1.6 km). Now you can choose between continuing forward on the Bom Retiro x Cova da Onça section or ending the hike by leaving the main Transcarioca Trail towards Bom Retiro (370 m). At Bom Retiro there are restrooms, children's playground, parking, Park rangers, and an asphalt road leading hikers out of the Park. There is usually cell phone signal at Largo.
(Direction East x West / Morro da Urca x Barra de Guaratiba)
For those starting this section at Bom Retiro or coming from the Cova da Onça x Bom Retiro section, the key is to follow the black footprints on yellow base and take the reverse route described above.
How to Get There
This section can be reached via Represa dos Ciganos, whose entrance is in front of Hospital Cardoso Fontes (Avenida Menezes Cortes, also known as Estrada Grajaú-Jacarepaguá, 3245 – Jacarepaguá, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22715-190, Freguesia-Jacarepaguá). Several bus lines depart from the city and other neighborhoods to this location.
In the other direction, the starting point is at Largo do Bom Retiro, in Floresta da Tijuca. You need to walk approximately 370 m along the trail to reach the main route of the Trilha Transcarioca.
Infographic
Attractions
Visit the historic Ciganos Dam, waterfall bathing, ruins of the old Boa Vista Farm, rocky walls of Tijuca Mirim, climb to Tijuca Mirim Peak and Tijuca Peak, passing through Largo do Bom Retiro in the Tijuca Forest.
Shops/Lodging
There is currently no partnership between the Trilha Transcarioca and local businesses.
Along this section you can find small bars and street vendors near the entrance to Hospital Cardoso Fontes, before the CEDAE gate, at the start of the Represa dos Ciganos x Bom Retiro section.
Water Points
There are water points along the trail, such as at Lajeado, where you can refill your canteen.
Photos
Historical Facts
The Ciganos Dam is actually an old drinking water reservoir for the city, built in 1906, which today only supplies the nearby hospital. Due to its low usage and the abandonment of the area by CEDAE, residents are using it as if it were a swimming pool, posing risks to public health.
At 1,021 meters altitude, Pico da Tijuca is the highest mountain in the Tijuca National Park, and the second highest along the entire Trilha Transcarioca. From there, you get a privileged view of the city.
Among the many stories of Pico da Tijuca, the most accepted is that in 1920, King Albert of Belgium, while visiting Brazil and being a skilled mountaineer, climbed its summit, then bare rock. Despite the cloudy day, upon reaching the top, the monarch was enchanted and exclaimed: "Your country has the most seductive and exciting nature in the world." Upon descending, he recommended that the Park adopt management techniques already common in Europe and make the summit accessible to less skilled mountaineers by installing a ladder. His suggestion was implemented in 1928, when the Government had 117 steps carved into the granite, which still give access to the peak today, and also provided thick railing chains to facilitate the climb.
Adopting Group
Centro Excursionista Brasileiro
www.ceb.org.br
Leader: Adilson Peçanha (CEB)
Email: adilson.pecanha@globo.com




















